Practical Tailoring: 6 by 1 Double Breasted Suit
Tailoring has many practical aspects about it, unfortunately, most of them aren’t used as much anymore and it has been taken over by “fashion” but there were many reasons why suits were cut and made certain ways.
We all know about the 2 button suit jacket and blazer, it is the most common design we see today, another design which was made popular back in the 1980s, is the 6 by 1 button double breasted jacket.
This was a jacket made for one purpose, to elongate the upper torso. The is visually done by increasing the lapel line, therefore shortening the size of the lower quarters to the hem.
Above you can visually see the difference the lower button stance of the 6 x 1 makes against the more popular 6 x 2 double breasted suit. This is a great design for people who have a smaller torso proportion and long legs.
This wouldn’t be recommended for an overly short person as it will stunt their height even more. A trick for a taller person wearing this style is to lower the gorge line of the lapels that will make the visual height drop but still keep the long line of the lapel and upper proportion. (As seen above with Luca Rubinacci)
Some might also remember seeing this style in the popular cult movie “American Psycho”, as worn by main character Patrick Bateman.
Here are a few other well-known names in the bespoke tailor circles who love this style of double breasted suit, Carlo Andreacchio from A.Caraceni and Hugh Jacomet from the Parisian Gentleman.