Calder Sartoria Trouser Review
I have been friends with Steve Calder for a few years now, from his humble work as a made to measure expert at Zegna here in Melbourne to starting up his own made to measure business.
“Tailoring” here in Australia is sparse but the use of the word is flooded, everywhere here (and I am sure the rest of the world too).
Unlike most new start ups, Steve knows the difference between Bespoke and Made to Measure. He also has fitting knowledge which is the main foundation of such a business, along side his real passion in menswear.
Steve chose to work solely with family owned and run business from Naples, Italy. A Calder garment features a hand-cut pattern, a high level of handwork, and jackets are always fully canvassed.
The trousers are hand cut and finished, with unique ‘D’ ring side adjusters, extended waistband and button fly/closure.
One thing I would like to point out is the “Hand Details”, these are the hard work and character behind tailoring in general. They won’t look as format compared to a machine stitch or buttonhole but that in itself is the beauty.
Like bespoke, made to measure takes a number of fittings. The expectation is usually higher than a ready to wear garment but should come out better fit-wise. In saying that, the more garments you get made for you through the same brand should get better and better, as minor adjustments will be made each time.
The fitting for my trousers was done using “master garments”, these are standard sizes the tailors use to gauge which pattern fits best to the wearer. Then adjustments are made to the master garment to adapt my own requirements.
Unlike most places bar a few, a body profile is also done to gauge my hip direction, seat proportion, and muscle mass. Photos are also taken to show the tailors these profiles and the pattern is adjusted accordingly.
The fit of my new Calder trousers was as expected, a comfortable waist, good drape and designed to my liking. The profile does need some minor adjustments to perfect the drape, where they catch on my legs as my legs lock-back whilst standing still.
The quality of handwork is definitely high where the work is done, buttonholes, bar tacks, and buttons. Although my waistband button was not present (easy fix) and on the button fly tacks between the button holes to hold the fly flat (which I comfortably did myself, another easy job). Steve was happy to rectify these problems at no extra charge.
Over all, I am quite happy with the final result of my first Calder trouser made which a midnight navy corduroy fabric from Emanual Ungaro and I look forward to seeing how the next pair turns out and possibly get a matching jacket too.